Sandra's Kitchen Studio

Easter Eggs

 

Copyright Sandra Gutierrez, 2009, All Rights Reserved.

Easter is here and eggs are on the menu!  These beautiful, organic eggs came from Celebrity Dairy in Siler City, NC and I purchased them at the Carrborro's Farmer's Market.

The egg is a symbol of life. Often taken for granted in these modern days when more  ingredients are lauded as exotic and as "new discoveries", the little darlings of the culinary realm seem to relegate eggs to the background. Despite this, eggs continue to yield their magic, without any fanfare and with very little recognition . Perhaps, when juxtaposed with the modern ingredients of exotic, faraway lands, the egg is viewed as just a simple staple in our kitchen. Not so quickly, my friends. Have some respect for the egg.

To me, the egg is the food that most symbolizes Spring.  Its perfectly spherical shape represents the commencement of life (and has since the times of Ancient Greece). Without the egg our culinary lexicon would be very different. We would have no creme brulee, hollandaise sauce, croquettes, quenelles, crepes, souffles, quiches, breads, cakes, puddings or custards.

Imagine a world without eggs. Nothing to bind meat loaves and forcemeats together, or to make bread crumb coatings stick. What would you replace the egg in eggnog with? Pancakes and waffles, mayonnaise and pastry creme, meringues, lemon curds and cheesacakes would not even exist. Imagine a world without genoise, sponge cakes and angel food cake (cholesterol-free and a wonder made with eggs).

Can you imagine a chef's toque blanche without its one hundred pleats (each is said to represent the a different way a chef can prepare eggs)? Just because eggs can be scrambled, baked, pickled and poached, fried, boiled and stuffed doesn't mean they are only to be relegated to breakfast fare (not that there is anything wrong with eating them at breakfast, by the way).  Rather, the egg is that quietly miraculous ingredient in our kitchens that provide airy lightness to souffles and smoothness to flans, that thickens custards and creme anglaise. They add crispness and height to profiteroles, eclairs and gougeres.

Eggs are the glue,the matchmaking liason, that binds crab cakes, meatballs, gnocchi and croquettes together and the leavening power in cakes. They emulsfiy mayonnaise and ice cream, and provide the shiny glaze on perfectly baked goods. Eggs are at the base of fresh pasta, dough, batters and sauces.

It is inspiring to me that within such a small food, protected solely by a fragile shell, could hide the secret that ultimately produces so many foods.  The egg is just too important to be ignored. So my friends, this Easter and Passover Season, I wish you meals rich in eggs and lore.

Now, start experimenting and find out how many pleats you can add to your own chef's toque!

As a gift to you, I offer an egg of a different kind. Made with polenta and shaped like eggs, these make the perfect side to your holiday repast.

Polenta Easter Eggs

6 1/2 cups water

1 tablespoon salt

1 pound yellow cornmeal (coarsely ground) or polenta

2 tablespoons butter (unsalted, natural)

1 cup grated Parmesan Cheese

Olive Oil

In a large and heavy-bottomed pot, bring the water to a boil. Add the salt; lower the heat to medium and slowly, in a stream, begin to add the cornmeal, all the while stirring with a whisk. Continue to add the cornmeal until all is incorporated. You will notice the mixture beginning to thicken. When the polenta gets too thick, switch to a wooden spoon and continue stirring often. If the polenta is sputtering too much, you can lower the heat slightly (the trick is to keep stirring). Cook polenta over the heat for 20 minutes, all the while stirring. Once the polenta thickens, it will begin to pull away from the sides of the pot. Remove polenta from the heat and stir in the butter and the cheese. Brush a jelly roll pan with olive oil and pour the hot polenta on the prepared pan, spreading it evenly. Allow the polenta to cool completely--this makes it set. Once it is cool, cut the polenta using an egg-shaped cookie cutter, into the desired number of eggs. These may be kept in the refrigerator, in one layer, for up to 24 hours (cover them well so they won't dry out). When ready to serve, heat the olive oil to 1/4 inch depth, in a non stick pan and saute the polenta eggs on both sides until they are golden brown and heated through. Serves 6.

Copyright, Sandra Gutierrez, 2009; All Rights Reserved.

 

Thanksgiving Repast

Thanksgiving dinner is quintessentially American, a culinary celebration of our nation that surpases any other holiday in popularity. No matter what your religion, ethnic background or social circumstance, if you are an American, you will most likely join in this holiday festivity. It is a holiday born out of a sense of love to neighbor and signifies that first embrace between different cultures in our territory.  It was around the first Thanksgiving table that our nation became what most distinguishes it from others around the world: a true melting pot of fused flavors, ingredients and cooking techniques from around the world.

Although there are many other holidays--both civic and religious--that are celebrated throughout the year, no other is as universally American as Thanksgiving. To date, American families gather around their tables to give thanks for blessings received; most repasts will include a plump turkey, cranberries in some form or another and delectable side dishes. 

Family members will travel great distances to congregate with their loved ones, making this the time of the year when more Americans travel than any other. In those instances in which the logistics of travel become impossible to resolve, those who find themselves far away from family  or even distant from the shores of our great country, will most likely still commemorate the holiday with a celebration of their own. This Thanksgiving Day will find countless Americans abroad--including those who have bravely chosen to serve our country--partaking with others around their own communal table, loving their neighbors and making new friends.

With so much in the way of inspiring diversity to choose from among the flavors that make up our American cuisine, I have developed a recipe for turkey with a southwestern twist. Ask your butcher to butterfly the turkey breast for you.  If you have larger gatherings make two or three turkey rolls. It takes less than two hours to prepare but tastes as if it took days to make.

So this year, gather around your family table, give thanks for blessings received and treat your loved ones to a wonderful Thanksgiving meal.

Santa Fe Rolled Turkey Breast

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

1/2 pound Mexican chorizo or bulk sausage, casings removed and crumbled

1/2 cup minced shallots

1 teaspoon smoked Paprika

1 cup minced cilantro (leaves and stems)

1 cup fresh breadcrumbs

1 large egg

1 (3-4lb.) butterflied turkey breast with skin

Salt and pepper

4 1/2 cups chicken broth (more, for basting)

1 cup dark rum

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons masa harina

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. In a medium saute pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat; add the chorizo and cook it, while breaking it up with a wooden spoon until it has rendered (3-4 minutes). Add the shallots and saute for another 3-4 minutes or until the shallots have just begun to caramelize. Remove mixture from the heat and allow it to cool slightly (8-10 minutes). Place the chorizo mixture in a medium bowl, add the smoked paprika, cilantro, breadcrumbs and egg, stirring well; set aside. Place the turkey breast between two large sheets of plastic wrap; using a mallet, and working from the inside of the turkey breast, out, flaten the breast until it is about one and a half inches thick. Remove the top sheet of plastic wrap and season turkey breast with salt and pepper. Spread out the breadcrumb mixture over the breast, making sure to leave a small rim around it. Working from the long side of the breast, bring the two side edges over the filling, then roll it up until you have a roll. Using kitchen twine, tie the roll, in order to hold the filling. Place turkey roll on a buttered roasting pan, skin side up and seam side down. In a large bowl, combine 3/4 cup of rum and the chicken broth, and pour it around the base of the turkey roll. Roast the turkey for 45 minutes, uncovered, basting every 20 minutes with the juices--if juices are reducing too quickly add more broth to the pan. Cover breast and roast for an additional 35-40 minutes or until it reaches an internal temperature of 175 degrees F. Remove turkey from the oven, transfer it to a serving platter and tent it with foil while you make the gravy. Strain the juices into a bowl (you should have about 2 1/2 cups, if you have less, adjust with more broth). Place the roasting pan over the stovetop over medium-high heat, and while stirring, add the ramianing rum, deglazing the pan, making sure to scrape the brown bits at the bottom of the pan; add the strained juices and stir well. In a spearate bowl, make a paste with the butter and masa harina, and slowly add bits of this paste to the gravy, while whisking vigorously. Bring gravy to a simmer, taste and adjust salt and pepper to taste. Strain gravy into a gravy boat; keep warm. Remove ties from the turkey breast and slice it thinly accross; serve with the gravy. Yield: 6-8 servings.

Copyright © Sandra A. Gutierrez, 2007. All Rights Reserved